Sierra Club Outings | The Ancient Buddhist Kingdoms of the Himalaya; India and Bhutan

The Ancient Buddhist Kingdoms of the Himalaya; India and Bhutan
November 9- 23, 2008

Highlights:

Explore the former Buddhist kingdom of Sikkim and the Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan
Tour active monasteries framed by the mighty Himalayas
Observe ancient Bhutanese and Sikkimese techniques in art, archery, and handicrafts

Includes:

All meals
Lodging in comfortable hotels
English-speaking guide
In-country transportation
All expected tips for porters, guides, drivers, etc.

During the first week of our trip we will tour the region that was once the ancient Buddhist Kingdom of Sikkim, which included Darjeeling, Gangtok, and Kalimpong. In 1975 Sikkim formally became a part of India.
We move on to Bhutan for the second week of our journey. Bhutan is in a period of fairly rapid transition from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy. King Jigme Singye Wangchuck abdicated in favor of his son, Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck on December 14, 2006. Mock elections for a legislative assembly are scheduled for 2008 with the real thing scheduled for some time 2008 to elect a 47 member assembly. The formal enthronment of the new King is scheduled for May, 2008 – six months prior to our arrival.

Sikkim was founded around the fifteenth century by lamas who emigrated from Tibet. Initially, Sikkim included parts of what is now eastern Nepal, the Chumbi Valley (Tibet), Haw Valley (Bhutan), and the Terai foothills down to the plains of India, including Kalimpong and Darjeeling (which is where we head first). After Sikkim lost territory to the British Gurkkas (soldiers from Nepal and Tibet), the kingdom ultimately signed an 1861 treaty declaring Sikkim to be a British protectorate. This treaty was passed onto India with Indian independence in 1947.
The second week of our trip we will experience the last remaining Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan. Recorded history regarding Bhutan goes back as far as the seventh century but there is evidence of settlements as early as 1500 or even 2000 B.C. Buddhism imported from Tibet has been the dominant religion for the last 1,300 years and Bhutan takes great pride in maintaining its identity as a Buddhist kingdom.

Today, Bhutan is an independent country with a seat in the United Nations General Assembly. Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck recently signed a treaty with India which give Bhutan a greater degree of independence over it foreign affairs.

Our tour is mostly by bus or van from Bagdogra, India (trip starts) to Paro, Bhutan where our trip ends. Our trip involves hiking from the bus to the various listed places of interest often on well trod paths, including climbing stairs. The longest hike is scheduled for our last full day in bhutan and is approximately seven miles and it optional.

Day 1: Bagdogra to Darjeeling. We transfer from Bagdogra Airport to Darjeeling by jeep or Mini Coach. The drive is three to four hours through tea gardens, villages, and towns, and at times runs nears the tracks of the toy train that goes to Darjeeling. We will stay two nights in Darjeeling.

Day 2: We start well before dawn on an excursion to Tiger Hill for sunrise views of Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world at 27,943 ft. We will also visit the Ghoom Monastery. After breakfast we take a half-day city tour of Darjeeling that includes visiting a tea estate, the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and the zoo. After lunch we take the fabled toy train ride to Ghoom and return to the hotel by jeep.

Day 3: Transfer from Darjeeling to Pemayangtse. Our drive from Darjeeling to Pemayangtse will take six to seven hours, passing through traditional Sikkimese Villages, rich green forests, and cardamom plantations.

Day 4: Early morning visit to Pemayangtse Monastery, the second-oldest monastery in Sikkim, and return to hotel for breakfast. We then proceed to Gangtok, which will take six to seven hours driving through terraced farms, villages, and the famed Terri Tea Garden of Sikkim. We continue our drive to Gangtok where we stay two nights.

Day 5: Morning excursion to Rumtek Monastery, the Seat of his Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapas with its Nalanda University for teaching the Kargyu disciplines of Tibetan Buddhism. We return to our hotel via the Institute of Tibetology, which houses many antiquities from the collection of the King of Sikkim along with 3,000 volumes of Xylographs. After lunch, we enjoy sightseeing in Gangtok, visiting the Enchey Monastery, catching a flower show, and walking around the downtown bazaar.

Day 6: Gangtok to Kalimpong. Our drive to Kalimpong will be mainly alongside the Testa River. After lunch and sightseeing in Kalimpong we will visit the Durpin Monastery, which is famous for the Mandala paintings on its ceilings and walls along with different deities of Tibetan Buddhism. We will also visit local flower nurseries and a market. This is a place to see village life.

Day 7: Kailimpong to Phuntsholing. We drive from Kalimpong to Phuntsholing, a town on the border between India and Bhutan where we spend the night.

Day 8: Phuntsholing to Thimphu. After our visas are processed, we start our journey up through a winding road of lush, pristine forest with great views of mountains, waterfalls, and Bhutan’s abundant flora. Overnight at Hotel in Thimphu.

Day 9: Sightseeing in Thimphu Valley. Sightseeing in the capital city will include a visit to the National Library, stocked with ancient Buddhist manuscripts, and a school where traditional art is kept alive through instruction in the art of painting Thangkhas (sacred Buddhist religious scrolls). We also visit a traditional medical institute where medicines are prepared according to ancient practices. We will also stop in at the Heritage Museum and Textile Museum.
After lunch we visit Lungtenzampa to observe the royal traditional silversmiths at work, as well as see traditional Bhutanese paper making. We continue our sightseeing by visiting an incense factory, and the National Memorial Stupa and Drupthob Nunnery Temple. [photo insert: Spice Market in Thimpu]

Day 10: Thimphu to Phobjikha. Leaving Thimphu the road climbs steeply through a forest of pine and cedar, festooned with hanging lichen high up near the 10,000-foot Dochula pass and offering panoramic views of the Himalayan mountain ranges. We then descend through rhododendron, magnolia, juniper, and pine forests filled with the chirping of the many rare birds found in Bhutan. Upon arriving at Wangdue Phodrang, lunch will be served at Dragon Resort overlooking the calm Punatsangchu River. We then drive to Wangdue town and visit the majestic Dzong located on the spur of a hill at the confluence of the Tsang Chu and Dang Chu rivers. After strolling the one-street market of Wangdue we continue our drive to Phobjikha, with occasional stops for pictures, bird watching, and scenery. Once at Phobjikha we check into the Dewachen Hotel. If time permits, we can explore the valley on our own.

Day 11: Phobjikha to Punakha. After breakfast we explore the Phobjikha Valley, winter home for the rare black-necked crane which migrates from the central Asiatic Plateau to escape the harsh winters there. The valley itself is a realm of high altitude dwarf bamboo, the favorite food of yaks. We will visit the Gangtey Monastery perched atop a small hill that rises from the valley floor. The monastery is surrounded by a large village inhabited mainly by the families of the 140 gomchens who take care of the monastery. The only Nyingmapa monastery in western Bhutan and the largest in the country, it is headed by its spiritual master, the ninth Gangtey Tulku.

Day 12: Punaka to Thimpu. After breakfast we will proceed to Punakha town to view the majestic Dzong (fortress), situated between the two rivers Pho Chu and Mochu (male and Female River). This fortress is now used as the winter seat of the Je Khenpo ( the Spiritual head of Bhutan). In the past this Dzong served as the capital seat of the country for 300 years. After the visit of the Dzong we will resume our journey to Thimphu, en route we will take a short 40 minutes walk to Chimi Lhakhang Temple situated on a small hill. This temple is dedicated to the great Yogi in 14th century known as Drukpa Kuenley or popularly known as “Divine madman” to the westerners. It is believed that this temple blesses women who seek fertility. We will continue our drive uphill after a good lunch at YT hotel crossing the Dochula Pass, if due to bad weather we missed the panoramic view of Bhutan’s 200 miles of majestic snowcapped peaks that border Tibet earlier this might be your best chance. Overnight at hotel in Thimphu. In the evening you are invited for a dinner at Private house where you will be joined by Bhutanese Dignitaries and some folk dances.

Day 13: Thimpu- Paro. After breakfast we will visit Thimphu weekend market, which is in a permanent set of stalls, vendors from throughout the region arrive on Friday afternoon and remain selling their goods until Sunday night. It’s an interesting place to visit, where village people jostle with well-heeled Thimphu residents for the best - and cheapest – vegetables and foodstuffs. This is the only time that fresh produce is easily available and the shopping is enhanced by the opportunity to catch up on the week’s gossip. At the northern end of the market is a collection of stalls called the indigenous goods and handicrafts section. Here you will find locally produced goods, including religious objects, baskets, fabrics and different hats from various minority groups.

We will then start our drive to Paro, this will take about two hours. In Paro we will visit Drukgyal Dzong built in 1647 by Shubdrung Nawang Namgyal, the Dzong was destroyed by fire and left in ruins as an evocative reminder of the great victories it was built to commemorate. On a clear day you can get a magnificent view of the Mount Chomolhari, alt. 7314 m / 23,990 ft. Drive south to Satsam Chorten, built in memory of the late Dilgo Khentse Rinpochey, and continue on to Kyichu Lhakhang, built in seventh century by a Tibetan King, Songtsen Gonpo and walk through the one street Paro town. After lunch visit the National Museum of Bhutan, (Ta Dzong) which contains works of art, handicrafts, costumes, armor and rare stamps. Take a leisurely hike down to Rimpung Dzong. You will walk through a traditional covered bridge across the river to one street Paro market, after an hour of strolling around the market you will then driven to your hotel.

Day 14: Excursion to the Tiger's Nest. Hike to Taktshang Monastery, the most famous of Bhutan's monasteries. Taktshang means "Tiger's Nest," so named because Guru Rimpoche reportedly flew to the site of the monastery on the back of a flying tiger in the early centuries of the first millennium. The monastery is perched on a cliff nearly 3,000 ft above the Paro valley floor. This day hike is not only historically and culturally interesting, but also incredibly scenic! Overnight at hotel.

Day 15: Depart Paro- Bangkok/ Delhi
Transfer to airport for your onward flight to Bangkok or Delhi.

We start our trip midday on Sunday, November 09, 2008, at the Bagdogra airport in West Bengal, India. We will have arrived there via morning flight from either New Delhi or Kolkatta (aka Calcutta). From there we journey to picturesque mountain town of Darjeeling. The trip ends Sunday, November 23, 2008, with our departure from the airport in Paro, Bhutan.

We will be staying in guest lodges and hotels that are designed to comfortably accommodate western tourists. The food provided is plentiful and usually there is enough variety to accommodate both vegetarians and non-vegetarians.

This trip is suitable for adults, including young adults, of any age who are comfortable walking several blocks (including stairs). Most of our travels are by bus, plane, and boat; once at a given destination, however, we'll get out and walk. This includes climbing stairs.

The trip leader will provide all trip members with a list of suggested equipment. In general, nothing special is required for this trip and it is usually better to travel light. Trip members are expected to bring any medicine, including prescription drugs, they might need during the trip.

Our trip will provide an opportunity to witness two very different approaches to conservation and development. During the first week while we are in what is now India, we will see what happens with unplanned (or unregulated) development. As India has become more prosperous, people are flocking to areas like Darjeeling for their vacations and arriving in their diesel powered SUVs.
Bhutan is one of the most remote countries in Asia and probably the most successful at preserving its environment. It is the only country that I know of that has actually increased the overall size of its forested areas. Nevertheless, it does have an on-going struggle to preserve its environment, exacerbated by constant pressure from its neighbors who would like to import more wood products. Bhutan has adopted an eco-friendly form of hydroelectric power production to avoid the problems associated with damming up their free flowing rivers. At the same time numerous Indians that come as guest workers in Bhutan are not allowed to become permanent residents or to vote.

The payment of a deposit does not confirm you as a member on the trip. Participants must be approved by the trip leader. After signing up for this trip, you will be sent a confirmation packet containing approval materials (Participant Approval Questionnaire, Medical Form, Liability Release Form). Each applicant (including those on the waitlist) must fill out these forms and promptly mail them to the trip leader. The leader will review the approval materials and notify you of your acceptance in a timely manner.

The Sierra Club accurately and fairly budgets and prices our trips. However, unforeseen costs such as devaluation of the dollar compared to other currencies and fuel surcharges assessed by our international providers, may necessitate adjustment in trip price. We will make every effort to mitigate and absorb these fees. If a price increase is necessary, however, you will have 14 days after announcement to cancel without penalty.

John Bird has been roaming the planet for the past 40+ years beginning with a two year stint in India with the Peace Corps. A true citizen of the world, John loves sharing his enthusiasm for other cultures, and over the past 20 years has led Sierra Club trips to England, Nepal, Italy, Bhutan and China, and assisted on trips in India and Turkey as well as scouted possible future trips to Morocco, Bali, Iran, Greece, Italy, Spain and France. This will be his third trip to this area. An avid digital photographer, John also enjoys sharing his expertise (and pictures) with trip members. When not planning or leading trips, John drives a big yellow school bus at his wife�s private high school.