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The biggest bears, the fattest mosquitoes, and a colossal mistake: pulping
the remnants of North America's mighty primeval forest.
Sow and cubs, Brooks Falls, Katmai Peninsula, Alaska |
A Grand Arc of Plenty
Most of the thousand-mile arc of the Alaska rainforest, from Ketchikan at
the southern tip of the "panhandle" to Kodiak Island, is much as it was when
Vitus Bering, near death from scurvy, first glimpsed it in 1741, and as Alutiiq hunters
had known it for the last 7000 years. Where mountains jut 18,000 feet out of the sea and
glaciers as big as Rhode Island calve monstrous icebergs in to the tides, the natural
giantism of the Pleistocene still survives in the largest bears on earth and moose that
stand higher than horses. Towering hemlock, cedar, and spruce shade rivers still throbbing
with salmon, while coastal waters teem with orcas, sea lions, otters, and milky-white
belugas--a natural wealth that sustained human communities in comfort and plenty for
millennia.
Our generation, however, is destroying the source of that bounty. When the
wreck of the Exxon Valdez blackened more than 15000 miles of Alaska beaches with 11
million gallons of North Slope crude in 1989, the world learned how fragile this mighty
system is. Five years later, the most visible signs of the spill are gone (though
populations of otter, salmon, harbor seals, harlequin ducks, and marbled murrelets have
still not recovered). Now the region faces a graver, more permanent threat: the same
razed-earth logging that has already devastated the Pacific Northwest.
But by rare poetic justice, the former disaster provides the opportunity
to help stop the latter. Nearly $700 million in civil and criminal penalties assessed
against Exxon are available to help restore the region by such means as the purchase and
permanent protection of private inholdings within public parks, refuges, and forests. The
Sierra Club has helped form a broad alliance of environmentalists, commercial and sport
fishermen, tourism entrepreneurs, Native corporations, and Native subsistence users to
ensure that much of this money is spent on preservation. Already, oil-spill funds have
spared 66,000 acres of forest by adding them to the state-park system.
While some federal and state officials are now actively helping to save
the Alaska rainforest, others are still forcing taxpayers to subsidize its destruction. In
1992, Tongass National Forest lost $64 million grinding huge swaths of forest into pulp
for the rayon industry. The Sierra Club is seeking real timber reform for the Tongass, as
well as for Chugach National Forest surrounding Prince William Sound, which at present is
largely unprotected.
Rainforest logging is perfectly in step with the boom-and-bust rhythm of
the Alaskan economy. Two centuries ago Russian fur traders enslaved the Aleuts, forcing
them to hunt the sea otter to near-extinction. Next, whales were slaughtered for lamp oil
and ladies' corsets. Successive gold rushes left toxic mine tailings and polluted steams.
Now the forest is being leveled at a record rate, with the trees that escape pulping
exported as unprocessed logs to Japan, Korea, and China. On this last frontier, the goal
is still to exploit local resources for a quick fortune.
The Sierra Club has a grander vision. In it, the most critical parts of
the parks, refuges, and forests along the western Gulf of Alaska are free of developed
inholdings. Wildlife habitat is guaranteed through new wilderness areas and
wild-and-scenic rivers (more than 100 of which are eligible in Tongass National Forest
alone). A healthy forest provides a sustainable economy--fishing, recreation, and a
smaller-scale wood-products industry. Joining the Club in this endeavor are seven other
organizations in the Alaska Rainforest Campaign, all dedicated to preserving one of the
greatest temperate rainforests of North America.
Contact:
201 Barrow Street, Suite 101
Anchorage, AK 99501
907-276-4048
fax 907-258-6807
nw-ak.field@sierraclub.org
Photo courtesy Philip Greenspun.
Source: Sierra magazine, March/April 1994.
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